By Heidi O'Donnell Eastman
A recent trip to Scotland brought Port to Port to the University of Glasgow, the Port Clyde Museum and the Scottish Highlands, and did not disappoint. Although I have a family connection to the city of Glasgow--my father was born and raised there--it was my first visit to Scotland. January in Scotland is quite cold and blustery and one could say bone-chilling, however, the Glaswegian warmth and humor more than compensated for any shortcomings concerning the weather. I had the good fortune of finding a fabulous flat in the west end, amidst stunning architecture. It was on the top floor of a meticulously restored Victorian mansion. Spacious, warm and oh-so comfortable it had a beautiful view looking north to the mountains. After a quick shopping trip to the corner market, I made a delicious pot of Scottish Blend tea and orientated myself so I could begin my work in the city the next day. I headed out to Byres Road which is loaded with cafes, charity and vintage shops and more. I took an immediate liking to the vibe of the west end and sensed that my stay was going to be memorable.
Feeling refreshed, my first full day in Scotland was spent in Port Glasgow on the River Clyde (see post on shipbuilding). Fifty percent of the world's ships and trains were manufactured in Glasgow in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Port Glasgow has a fascinating history. In the 18th century, ships mostly owned by Glasgow merchants imported mahogany, tobacco, sugar, rum and cotton from the Americas into Port Glasgow or Newport Glasgow as it was known. By the 19th century it became a center of shipbuilding and drydocks. It was a thriving industry until the 1960's.
My second full day in the city involved a stop first at the Kelvingrove Museum. I headed to one of the main galleries where I enjoyed a combination of old masters, a bust of Queen Victoria and a cool contemporary installation suspended from the ceiling. I checked out the show, The Glasgow Boys, which was going to be an integral part of my place-based learning lectures. How exciting to see these paintings exhibited together! Next was the inimitable Charles Rennie MacKintosh and the Glasgow style room. I really needed a full day of Mackintosh. Next trip!
The University of Glasgow, founded in 1451, is the fourth oldest English speaking University in the world and has always been at the forefront of innovation. It is also a visual wonder--tall spires and a maze of buildings on top of a hill which look out to the city and beyond. It looks like Hogwarts on steroids. And that is just on the outside! Once inside I learned of some of the greatest thinkers and scientists who graced the venerable halls of this university--think Adam Smith, James Watt, Lord Kelvin and Joseph Lister. My tour of the university, led by Nick Bruce and Joey Kirk, brought me through the medieval warren of streets and alleys at quite a clip, pulling my tartan woolen scarves (yes, more than one is necessary) a bit tighter to fight the raw cold.
After lunch in a little bistro near campus, we headed back to the International Studies Department to Skype with my students back in New Bedford. I wanted to bring my American students up to speed and give them a chance to connect with my university colleagues here in Glasgow. After a great Q&A session we called it a wrap for the day.
The evening was carved out for music Glaswegian style. You can't visit this city without imbibing in the vibrant music scene--one of Europe's best. We also managed to check out some Glaswegian Rap with a bluesy American vibe at a vegan club.
My last full day in Glasgow was an exciting one: a productive meeting and lecture at the university again, then we ventured out of the city to Loch Lomond and the Highlands. The big, dramatic skies were an incredible backdrop to the snow covered mountains and castles which dotted the landscape. Just before sunset we circled back to vist the beautiful whiskey distillery of Glengoyne--a wee dram was welcome, indeed!
I wanted my last meal in Glasgow to be great and typically Scottish fare. We dined at the Bothy (means small hut in Scottish) situated in a mews in the west end. It was really lovely, cozy and delicious.
My journal is full of notes and sketches and reflections. The deep glens, glittering lochs, majestic mountains amidst the mysterious myths and legends are like no other. My professional, personal and artistic interests collided in this formidable port city, and left a tectonic impression.
